Strategy Guide PSX

                              Gran Turismo
                B-Class License Winning Strategies Guide
          Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
                       Sony PlayStation 1 Console
                  Compiled by Mark Kim (Vesther Fauransy)
                              Revision 0.7.1
            Date of Completion: February 14, 2000 (No Time Given)
          Date of Public Release: February 14, 2000 (No Time Given)

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========================================================================
GENERAL INFORMATION

Make: Gran Turismo
Developer: Polyphony Digital
Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
Release Date: First Quarter 1998
ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
Genre: Racing
Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
MSRP: $49.99 US
Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
Features: Memory Card Save.  Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.

========================================================================
HISTORY OF THIS FAQ

Version 0.2 (August 31, 1998)
-----------------------------
Managed to get the International-A License after weeks, and weeks of
frustration, anxiety, and anger!  I've managed to pull out an unfair
domination on two of the five championships that I am entitled to
participate in!  I'm gonna try to help you as much as I can with the
pain-in-the-ass time trial examinations so you can get your IA-Class
License without having to waste too mcuh time.

Version 0.5 (September 15, 1998)
--------------------------------
Attempted to complete the IA-Class License tests by offering complete
strategies as much as I can.  Too tired and dizzy to start offering
strategies on the Tuned Class sections of this guide for now.

Version 0.53 (September 24, 1998)
---------------------------------
The Tuned Car Championship and Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance
Championships are completed thanks to my commitment buying an Inca
Computer under an Inca Loan.  I already have ordered a phone line from
Ameritech and I am now seeking out Internet Access for my own self so
I don't have to wander around all over and over the Chicagoland Metro
Area just to use the Internet anymore.  Please be warned that there is
bound to be some repetitiveness in some sections of the FAQ so bear with
me on this.  This document is also available in ZIP format.

Version 0.6.1 (March 19, 1999)
------------------------------
Just a tune-up on my legalese.  Nothing major here.  Note that my Gran
Turismo Documents are now available in ZIP Formats and the three ZIPPED
Documents are now available as a self-extracting EXE directly from my
Website.

February 14, 2000
-----------------
I HATE VALENTINE'S DAY!!!!!  To counter my hatred towards Valentine's
Day, I'd better start off with the major uphaul of this A-Class License
Guide.  This is the first update in a long time so I highly recommend
that you read it over and over again to see what twists and turns that
I might have included.  Also, be on a lookout for any bugs.  If you see
any, then please let me know about this so that I can fix them right
away.  I had to add a Frequently Asked Questions section so that the
dumbest questions can be answered.

I thought that I would've waited until some other time to update this
guide, but I thought earlier would be better so that my anger towards
Valentine's Day would calm down.

========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ

*  Newsflash
*  My recommendations
*  What is an International A Class License?
*  The Eight License Tests (Fukomoto Atsushi at [email protected])
   -  High Speed Ring Attack
   -  Special Stage Route 5 Attack
   -  Grand Valley Speedway Attack
   -  Deep Forest Attack
   -  Autumn Ring Attack
   -  Trial Mountain Attack
   -  Special Stage Route 11 Attack
   -  Grand Valley Speedway Reverse Attack (IA License Examination)
*  Gran Turismo World Cup
*  Supertuned Car Championship
*  Grand Valley Speedway Endurance Championship
*  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars
*  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars
*  The Do's and Dont's
*  Some Rants
*  Resources and Stuff
*  Acknowledgements
*  One Final Warning

========================================================================
NEWSFLASH

***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***

AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
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Note: This notice is derived on Brett Nemesis Franklin's Crazy Taxi
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As always, newer versions of this FAQ can be found first at my own web
site located at http://www.verasnaship.net.  If you have any fixes or
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I grant you permission to e-mail me at the aforementioned URL as
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========================================================================
RECOMMENDATIONS

1.  You need to be a proud holder of the B-Class and A-Class License
    before getting your International A Class License.  Once you are
    eligible for these tests, you'll know why.

2.  I recommend that you keep a straight and smooth driving line on all
    tests because any skidding could slow you down.  Be careful not to
    course-out as you will fail the test if you do so.

3.  After passing the 7 tests, you'll use the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe
    and play your luck at the Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  If you
    can pass this pain-in-the-ass test (you got the IA License!), then
    it's time to polish up your skills on any A-Class Special Event.

4.  After placing first on all A-Class championships, then it's time
    to press your luck at the GT World Cup, which is laden with
    nuisantic Castrol Mods.  To tell these somewhat lame Castrol Mods
    that resistance to your superiority is futile, earn the Mitsubishi
    FTO Limited Edition by winning the American and Japanese Car Series
    or buy the Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition for 500,000 Credits.  As
    an alternative, you can heavily tune and "Castrolize" either your
    GTO Twin Turbo or Skyline GT-R to cheese through this Cup.  You
    will gain access to three Gran Turismo Hi-Fi races once you place
    first overall in this series.

5.  To earn lots of money, buy a Dodge Viper GTS, and DON'T DO ANYTHING
    (tuning it up, reducing weight, or Castrolizing this car) so you can
    have a normal car at your garage.  Pit the Viper GTS on the oh-so-
    difficult Commercial Car Championship.  If you can place first on all
    five tracks, you should take home 350,000 credits.  If you pole
    position and dominate the series, then you should take home 400,000
    credits.

6.  Since you're not allowed to bring any Castrol Mods, Toyota Castrol
    Supra GT, Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, Nissan Nismo GT-R, Mazda
    RX-7 Limited Edition, Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, Acura NSX-R
    Limited Edition, or any other "cheap" special cars (like the Dodge
    Viper GTS-R and the kick-ass Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) on the
    Supertuned Car Championships and on the Special Stage Route 11
    Endurance Championship without Racing Cars, go to the Nissan Dealer,
    buy a new Skyline GT-R, and heavily tune this car to the max and
    cut its weight down, but DON'T CASTROLIZE THE CAR.  I have to say
    this because you will need a non-Castrolized car to enter either
    the Supertuned Car Championship or the Special Stage Route 11
    Endurance Championship without Racing Cars (Jaz Rignall for PSM
    Online located at http://www.psmonline.com)

7.  Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I
    recommend that you just enjoy the game.  Although you may get pissed
    just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover
    new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills.  Having fun
    while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking
    of you.

8.  PSM Online has a kick-ass Gran Turismo Guide you can read Online at
    http://www.psmonline.com.  Be sure you check out GameFAQs.com for
    some neat Gran Turismo Extras at http://www.gamefaqs.com.

9.  If you don't have *at least* one at your home already, then I
    recommend going to your nearest authorized PlayStation Dealer to
    get a Dual Shock Analog Controller.  Please give your thumbs a rest
    by turning the Analog on to use the Left Analog Stick.  Trust me.
    It takes time to get used to, but once you get used to control the
    car with the left stick, then the control's excellent.  The most
    important part of the Analog Stick is that you're not numbing your
    thumbs too much.  This is useful on the endurance races because
    you're running 30-60 laps, and if you use the D-Pad too much, then
    you'll hurt your thumbs badly.

========================================================================
SO WHAT THE HELL DOES THE IA-CLASS LICENSE MEAN?

An IA-Class License means that you've proven the Racing License Board
that your a competent driver and you know how to complete the toughest
track in the shortest amount of time possible.  It also means that you
can participate in all events, surpassing the participation volume of
both B-Class and A-Class License holders.  It also means that you're
able to keep the car under control even in the harsh situations in a
track, and you can handle Rear-Wheel Drive Cars efficiently. Holding the
International A-Class License, you should be able to do the following
according to Fukumoto Atsushi:

-  Completing all the tracks in the shortest possible time
-  Being capable of being a competent driver
-  Being able to avoid going off the course
-  Capable of driving any TVR and Dogde cars
-  Having the ability of keeping a smooth driving line at all times
-  Taking wicked corners without harsh sliding
-  Being able to use the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" maneuver

In addition to the B-Class and A-Class events that you can participate,
you are entitled to participate in these events provided that you have
finally earned the International A License from your hard efforts:

*  The GT League:
   -  Gran Turismo World Cup
*  Special Events:
   -  Great Valley Speedway 300 Mile Endurance Championship
   -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship with Racing Cars
   -  Special Stage Route 11 Endurance Championship without Racing Cars
   -  Supertuned Car Championship

========================================================================
INTERNATIONAL A CLASS LICENSE EXAMINATIONS

Note:  An A-Class License is required before you can take any of these
tests.

Index of tests:
IA-1:  Attack the High Speed Ring with the TVR Griffith
IA-2:  Attack Special Stage Route 5 with the Dodge Viper GTS
IA-3:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway with the TVR Griffith
IA-4:  Attack Deep Forest with the Dodge Viper
IA-5:  Attack Autumn Ring with the TVR Griffith
IA-6:  Attack Trial Mountain with the Dodge Viper
IA-7:  Attack Special Stage Route 11 with the TVR Griffith
IA-8:  Attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse with the Dodge Viper

Note:  In order to take IA-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-1: ATTACK THE HIGH SPEED RING
Test Car: TVR Griffith
Time Limit: 1'07"000
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This could possibly be the easiest of the eight license tests.  However,
you need to make sure that you're not powersliding too much and that
you are keeping a *smooth* driving line for as much as you can.  I don't
know if *any form of cheating* would be acceptable in this test, so you
*do* have to e-mail me at [email protected] if you come up with
something new.  With regards to this license test, I'll try to strike a
perfect balance of speed, handling, and control as much as possible.

Turn 1
------
You can take this first turn at full speed.  However, during the final
stretch of the turn, you'll have to be careful because the turn ends
with a *surprising* sharp left, and there's bound to be *some* grass
at the right side of the track.  Try not to hit the wall or touch the
grass as those would be grounds for failing the test.  You can slide
through the final stretch of the turn, but I consider this a pain.

Turn 2
------
You shouldn't be going any faster than ~100 mph while taking on this
turn.  Do a *zest* braking *just before the turn starts*.  When the
turn starts, you should be moving from the outside of the track and
into the inside.  However, you may have to go slower, depending on the
position that you start the turn.  When you exit the turn, grass will
be waiting for you at both sides of the track!  What a way to go!

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Keep your speed under 80 mph (I mean it) when taking on these turns.
Cut your speed as early as you can (but not too early nor too late)
and when the turn starts, you should be moving from the outside to
the inside.  When trying to cut the apex of Turn 3, it's important
that you don't touch the grass (as you will instantly fail the test
if you do).  Be sure that you control the TVR efficiently during all
of Turn 3 because Turn 4 starts immediately after Turn 3.  I found
that rapid-gas tapping would work, provided that you are not over-
spinning the rear wheels and that you're not carrying the TVR into
a heavy drift.  At the start of Turn 4, you may want to do some
*slight* braking so that you can move from the right and into the
left.  As with Turn 3, you need to keep your speed under 80 mph (but
higher speeds may be possible if you are adventurous) and leaning to
the left side of the track (using rapid-gas tapping and making sure
to stay off the grass).  You should accelerate as the turn ends.  Be
sure not to touch the "greetings" grass as you exit the turn.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Go inside of the entire turn.  When the turn ends, be prepared to face
Turn 6.  Brake at a straight line to ~100 mph, and take the turn from
the inside of the track.  Accelerate *only* when you're confident that
you'll exit the turn without further problems.  Avoid the wall at the
right and the grass at the left at all costs while taking on this turn.
Now finish the track and hope you are fast enough.  If so, then save
this passed test on your memory card before taking another IA-Class
License Test.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-2: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
Test Car: Dodge Viper
Time Limit: 1'30"00
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is one of the hardest license tests in the IA-Class because you
are being tested on your ability to be a competent driver to start.
Second of all, you will be tested on how well you can tame the Dodge
Viper on some of the lousiest turns in the track.  There's some areas
that you need to worry about.  I'll try to pin-point them as I walk you
along through this devilish test.

Turns 1 and 2
-------------
You can take the first turn at full speed.  However, the second turn is
where you have to cut your speed so you don't wind up scrapping the wall
at the right.  By the time you end the first turn, you should have
*already* braked to ~100 mph, and use some rapid gas tapping to avoid
hitting the wall at the right side of the screen.  Any wide skidding
is grounds for loss of speed, which is precious.  Just make sure that
you don't see any Tire Smoke while taking on Turn 2.

Turn 3
------
You may wish to take this turn at full speed, but I wouldn't do so as
this turn is *kind of* sharp.  Be sure that you are starting the turn
from the outside and move deeply into the inside.  The key to take on
this turn successfully is to keep a smooth racing line without having
to powerslide or any unneccessary/excessive slowdown.  You should be
in good shape when you take on Turn 4.

Turn 4
------
Slow down to ~60 mph and start the turn from the outside and move
gently into the inside.  A wide skid would result in a spin-out where
as starting the turn too late would be grounds for immediate fail.
This is a *painful* turn, so make sure that you're not doing so much
slowing down in the turn that you didn't beat this course in less
than 1'30"000.

Turn 5
------
Provided that you have indeed taken Turn 4 with *zest*, you should
be able to take this turn without much trouble and through full speed
ahead.  If you were sloppy during Turn 4, then I don't know how you
will be able to cope with this somewhat blind turn.

Turns 6 and 7
-------------
You can take on this Ess without losing any speed provided that you
keep a smooth racing line and that you started the turn the earliest
possible.  Be careful when trying to exit out of Turn 7 because
that's when you will be facing a weird straight.  Don't try to hit
the railings at the left side of the track (just before Turn 8
begins) as you will fail the test.

Turns 8 and 9
-------------
The key to undertaking these turns is to cut the apex for as much as
you can without any skidding or blatant slowdown.  You may wish to
slide at Turn 8 and take Turn 9 at full speed but that's pretty
dangerous to say because skidding takes away some precious speed
and melts down your tires viciously.  Try to target your speed
around ~85 mph by the time you start undertaking the first turn so
that you can take the second medium turn at full speed.  You should
be at the outside by the time the Hairpin begins.

Turn 10
-------
Start this Hairpin too late and you will fail the test.  Spin out
during the hairpin and you will be wasting valuable time.  Another
main concern during the IA-2 Test.  Slow down to ~40 mph before you
start taking on this hairpin and try to avoid any skidding as much
as you can so that you can take the next two turns without too much
effort.

Turns 11 and 12
---------------
Provided that you have taken Turn 10 with *zest*, you can take on
Turn 11 without losing speed.  At Turn 12, use the out-and-in with
*minimal* skidding so that you barely miss hitting the wall.

Turns 13-15
-----------
Major concern.  You may have to slow down to below 75 mph in order
to take on the first two sharps.  Make sure that you don't skid on
the first two turns because you'll need every ounce of control by
the time you take on Turn 15.  I would slow down somewhere around
the pedestrian crossing before Turn 13 begins.  At Turn 15, you
should do some skidding (though it's risky) provided that you've
taken Turns 13 and 14 carefully and without any heavy skidding or
spinning-out.  After you finish Turn 15, you will need to prepare
to take on Turn 16.

Turn 16
-------
Another Major concern.  You may want to start the out-and-in while
taking on this turn.  You may need to speed out if you think you're
going to hit the wall.  Rapid-gas-tapping's acceptable as long as
you're not crazy about skidding.  Now go onto the Straightaway to
the finish line and when you finish, hope that you're fast enough.
Provided that you have finished this track in under 1'30"000, save
the passed test on your Memory Card before going onto the Third
International A-Class License Test.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-3: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
Test Car: TVR Griffith
Time Limit: 2'03"00
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You'll have to make sure that you are braking at a straight line and
making sure that you are using the "Slow-In, Fast-Out" technique in
order to cope with some of the wicked turns you will see in this test.
In order to block off an attempt to go off-track, I'm going to use a
good blend of speed and handling for as much as I can.  Since the TVR
Griffith may be heavy, I'm gonna force you to brake early as possible
and to avoid blatant wheelspin for as much as I can.

Turn 1
------
Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin.  Make
sure by the time you *nearly* touch the straight before the hairpin
starts, brake to below 60 mph so you can take on this hairpin without
going off-track.

Turn 2
------
It's important to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can in
this hairpin because you will need every drop of control while this
hairpin persists.  During this hairpin, you shouldn't be accelerating
and going no faster than 55 mph.  Just a little after the middle of
the hairpin, you should be accelerating, but only if you are confident
enough that you won't touch the grass.

Turns 3-5
---------
These rather gentle turns can be taken at full speed.  However, in
Turn 5, you may have to do a little drifiting because I found Turn
5 to be pretty dangerous during high speed entrances.  Make sure that
you have the car straightened by the time you exit Turn 5, or you'll
be sorry when you enter Turn 6, which is a hairpin.

Turn 6
------
The key to taking on this hairpin is to go no faster than 40 mph and
by keeping up a smooth racing line at all costs.  Brake preferrably
just a little after the middle of the straight so you will allow some
room for error, move to the left side of the track when you are done
braking, and cut the turn from the outside and into the inside.  You
should have the car recovered by the time you finish up taking on
this tight hairpin.

Turns 7 and 8
-------------
Cut the apex of each of the turn.  Brake just a bit so you can take
on these turns without any harsh risks of going out-of-track.  I
would say that you should take Turn 7 at 85 mph and Turn 8 at 65 mph
and you should not do any skidding here since you are going to be
spinning the rear tires blatantly.

Turn 9
------
Brake to 50 mph just before the turn starts.  Cut the turn from the
out-and-in, and make sure that you don't wind up into a blatant skid
which can overspin your rear tires.  You should have the car back to
straight position just before Turns 10 and 11.

Turns 10 and 11
---------------
Brake to ~68 mph just before Turn 10 begins and cut Turn 10 from the
out and in.  Don't acclerate or get into a heavy skid.  At Turn 11,
you should not be exceeding any faster than 85 mph to avoid possible
contact with the grass at the left side of the track.  I would take
Turn 11 with some rapid-gas tapping.

Turn 12
-------
Cut your speed to 100 mph just before this turn begins.  As the turn
starts, use rapid gas tapping for handling and try to stay in the
middle of the track for as much as you can.  You shouldn't be going
any faster than 95 mph while taking on this turn.  Don't let the
next straight fool you because you will have to face Turns 13 and 14
sooner or later, and if you want to pass, you will need to slow down
the sooner the better.

Turns 13 and 14
---------------
Hairpins in disguise.  Cut your speed to 40 mph just before the first
hairpin begins, and make sure that you are cutting from the outside.
Don't get into a blatant slide because you'll spin out if you do.
At Turn 14, you should do the "Slow-in, Fast-Out" maneuver in order
to cut the apex of the final hairpin.  You will need the car back to
straight standing by the time you finish taking on these two turns.

Turns 15 and 16
---------------
Turn 15 can be taken at full speed, but at Turn 16, you should do some
*slight* skidding by turning ahead of time and by cutting the apex.
The key onto taking Turn 16 is to test your ability to handle a medium
right turn without any blatant slowing down.  The ideal speed for Turn
16 would be around 96 mph.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-4: ATTACK DEEP FOREST
Test Car: Dodge Viper
Time Limit: 1'23"00
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yep, it's the track that most beginners will more likely fail because
there's grass everywhere and simple grass contact will fail the test.
You need to keep your Viper under control if you wish to pass the test.
Face it.  You ARE outgunned.  You need to be in total control if you
want to pass the test.  Now in order to help you pass this test, here's
some major pointers in the track:

Turn 1
------
Cut your speed to under 70 mph, and take the turn from the outside and
into the inside.  Be sure that you do not accelerate during the turn
because you will risk going inside the grass (meaning that you fail the
test if you do).

Turns 2 and 3
-------------
Try to stay centered within these two turns, striking a good balance
between speed and handling, making sure that you do not strive for
lurid tailslides.  Try not to cut the apex because you may risk having
the wheels touch the grass.  Turn 3 is something to worry about because
you have to slow down in preparation for Turn 4.  Don't go too fast in
this area because you will need all the control to make it through the
next concern in the track.

Turns 4 and 5
-------------
You shouldn't be going any faster than 65 mph on this area.  Try to
keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can right over here.  Try
not to get into a lurid fish tail slide because that's when you are
about to touch the grass.  After Turn 5, you may have to make sure that
you are staying centered in the track because you have some evil bends
to take care of before the sixth major turn.  Try to remain centered
in this scene, and definitely forget cutting the apex.

Turns 6 and 7
-------------
Turn 6 can be taken with a mediocre tailslide (although I'm strongly
opposed to tail slides here).  Just before Turn 7, you should have the
car straightened up.  You can cut the apex at Turn 7 if you want, but
make sure that you are not poised to hit the right wall by the time you
enter the slight easy bends just before the eighth major turn.

Turn 8
------
You need to slow down ahead of time (but not too early) in order to
avoid contact with the grass at your right.  Stay centered in this turn
or you can cut the apex providing that you are not touching the grass
at the left side of the track.

Turns 9 and 10
--------------
The final stretch of the track.  Turn 9 can be taken at full speed (as
long as you don't go bonkers cheating on the test) and Turn 10 can be
taken with some sliding (provided that you are not willing to touch the
grass at either the left or right side of the track).  Cross the finish
line and hope that you have passed the test.  If so, then save your
passed test on the memory card before going onto another test.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-5: ATTACK AUTUMN RING
Test Car: TVR Griffith
Time Limit: 1'24"00
Prerequsite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Autumn Ring is one of the tougher courses because you have to avoid any
blatant cheating, as this is grounds for test failure.  Always make sure
that you are going as smooth as possible, and possibly try to use the
Slow-In, Fast-Out maneuver to take on harsh corners.  Cutting the Apex
is acceptable as long as you don't wind up cheating on some seemingly
tough corners.

Turn 1
------
Hairpin Right.  Slow down at a point where you can take on this hairpin
at an exceptionally high speed (but just about right so you don't have
to track-out all of a sudden).  Move the car from the outside and into
the inside.  You should try to be at the right side of the track when
Turn 2 begins.

Turn 2
------
You may be dizzy as you encounter this turn because you have to deal
with the chicanes right after this turn.  Again, move from the outside
and into the inside.  You should not be going too fast after this turn
because you are about to deal with the chicanes and not be cutting on
the corners too blatantly.  If you blatantly cut the corners, then you
will fail the test.

Turns 3 through 6
-----------------
Try to keep a smooth racing line so that you can cut the apex and not
blatantly cut the corners.  Try to stay centered after the first chicane
so that you will take on the second chicane without blatant cutoffs.
Forget about accelerating here.

Turn 7
------
This turn can be taken apex-cutting style with some controlled skidding.
You need to watch your speed and possibly slow down to where you can
take on the next hairpin with control because you will be entering this
hairpin at a high speed, and if you do not want to fail, don't let this
straight fool you.

Turn 8
------
You should have remained at the left side of the track and slowed down
at a point where you can take on this hairpin at a good speed, but just
about enough to make sure that you don't track-out.  Cut the apex using
the slow-in, fast-out method, and don't slide or you may be spinning
out and possibly track-out.

Turn 9
------
This hairpin shouldn't be as bad as the first two hairpins.  You need
to slow down so that you can cut the apex and prevent yourself from
tracking-out the course.  Turn 10 is coming up, so don't get too dizzy
from this turn and have the car straightened by the time you undertake
Turn 10.

Turn 10
-------
If you are adventurous, then take this turn at full speed turning
early and possibly cutting the apex.  Otherwise, it will be safe to
reduce your speed just right so that you can undertake this turn
without having to go track-out.

Turn 11
-------
This 235 is a killer.  You may have to cut your speed to 60 mph and
possibly try to slide throughout this turn.  This is a challenging
sector of the track because you need to slide without going off the
track and without spinning out.  After this turn, don't let the next
straight fool you because you have a chicane and a medium right coming
up.

Turns 12-14
-----------
You will need to cut your speed about right so you can cut the apex
of the first turn and treat the next two turns just before the next
medium right as one turn.  With regards about the chicanes, you need
not cut the apex since you risk hitting the barrier or touch the grass
for the least.  Don't let the next straight fool you as you need to
cut your speed so you can take Turn 15 without drama.

Turn 15
-------
Cut your speed and slide by cutting the apex on this lamer.  Make sure
that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Straighten up your
car so you can take the final two turns without blatant slowdowns.

Turns 16 and 17
---------------
The final stretch of this track.  Turn ahead of time so that you can
cut the apex and take these two turns at full speed.  Cross the finish
line and hope that you were fast enough.  If you pass this test, then
save this passed test on your Memory Card before going on to the next
test.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-6: ATTACK TRIAL MOUNTAIN
Test Car: Dodge Viper
Time Limit: 1'33"00
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------

A good way to practice up on Trial Mountain just before the actual test
is to pit a Dodge Viper GTS on a Spot Race.  You should get a good idea
on what you are expected to do for the actual test.  Afterwards, it's
time to see if you can bring your skills up to level at this test.

Turns 1 and 2
-------------
Take these turns at full speed, making sure that you are turning ahead
of time, and that you are cutting the apex.  Be sure you have the Viper
straightened up before Turns 3 and 4.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Turn 3 can be taken at full speed using out-and-in.  Be sure that you
are turning ahead of time or you may be touching the grass (No touching
or propositioning of the ladies!!!!!  The grass reminds me of the ladies
for personal reasons during a license test.).  Don't let the bend fool
you because you need to slow down if you want to take on Turn 4 without
drama.  By the time you take on Turn 4, you should slow down to under
70 mph, cut the apex from the out-and-in, and as you fast-out of Turn 4
(provided that you are NOT TOUCHING THE GRASS), make sure you line up
at the left side of the track to take on Turn 5.

Turn 5
------
Don't let the straight fool you.  Turn 5 is sharp, meaning that you
need to take this turn at no faster than 55 mph, cutting the apex, and
not accelerating until after the turn.  Sloppy driving throughout this
turn are grounds for immediate fail.  Be sure that you have the car
straightened up as you take on the two slight bends before Turn 6.

Turns 6 and 7
-------------
The preferred speed to undertaking Turn 6 is 85 mph with some out-and-in
before the tunnel.  Turn 7 should be taken at between 75-80mph and you
should make sure that you are cutting the apex, slowing down just before
you exit the tunnel, and cutting as you leave the tunnel.  Have the car
straightened and enjoy the straight while it lasts.

Turn 8
------
Slow down to about roughly 70 mph (adjust depending on your experience)
as you see the turn coming up from the straight and take this turn from
the right and land into the left of the turn.  Don't accelerate until
after the turn.

Turns 9-11
----------
Cut the apex of each of the turns, but Turn 11 is where you'll have to
do your worry-abouties.  Slow down to 70 mph before Turn 11 starts,
cut the apex (don't touch the grass), and fast-out while straightening
up your car before Turn 12 comes to play.

Turn 12
-------
You will be carrying a better deal of speed if you slow down to around
70 mph ahead of time and using the In and out technique to take this
hairpin.  Be sure that you are staying clear of the grass if you decide
to stay low with this one.

Turns 13 and 14
---------------
The ideal speed to taking these turns is 106 mph with some apex-cutting.
Cut your speed after you pass the Bridgestone Tunnel in a straight line,
then cut the apex like you usually do.  If done correctly, then you don't
have to worry about touching the grass (ladies in my case).  Gotta be
careful if your Viper takes a dip because if you take this dip, be
prepared to spin-out of control and possibly fail the test.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-7: ATTACK SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
Test Car: TVR Griffith
Time Limit: 2'14"00
Prerequisite: None
------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is a tough test because you will have to deal with one of the most
painful courses I have to think about.  Also, it's important that you
try not to fishtail your car as you may get into a heavy spinout as you
take on certain turns.  It's important to slow down at a certain point
if you are bidding to pass the test.

Turn 1
------
Take this one at full speed.  Don't let the slight straightaway fool
you as the next turn is sharp.

Turn 2
------
Approach this turn as speed, and brake at a straight line from the left
side of the track.  As soon as you reach a desirable speed, slide (but
don't acclerate), cut the apex (but don't front-out the barrier), and
straighten up the car before Turns 3 and 4.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Take Turn 3 at full speed and immediately slide Turn 4, making sure
that you straighten up the car before Turns 5 and 6.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Approach Turn 5 by braking at a straight line, and slide Turn 5 without
accelerating.  Straighten up the car before Turn 6 comes, and do the
same thing with Turn 6 (but you may have to hit the wall, but hopefully
you shouldn't be able to front-up the barrier if you slide just in time).

Turn 7
------
A good way to cheat on this hairpin (I call this cheating on a lady) is
to line up your car at the left side of the track, and rub your car at
the left.  It may be necessary to do a little sliding to avoid any
sudden instant fail of the test.

Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Hopefully, your car is straightened up by the time you are taking these
two turns.  Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Slide slightly at Turn
9 to prevent an immediate fail, and try to rub your right tires at the
right wall (line up the car at the wall before doing this), and have the
car back in your control before Turns 10-13.

Turns 10-13
-----------
Fronting the barriers here will result in an immediate fail.  It is
important to keep yourself under control while taking on this chicane.
Ease up and try to keep a straight line to minimize the loss of control
in this area.

Turns 14 and 15
---------------
Take these turns at full speed, and definitely don't let the straight
fool you as Turns 16 and 17 (a deadly chicane) are coming up.

Turns 16 through 18
-------------------
Approach Turn 16 by braking to 60 mph ahead of time.  Slide Turn 16 and
take on Turn 17 the same way.  You should have the car straightened up
by the time Turn 18 starts.  Try to stay low in Turn 18 for as much as
you can.

Turn 19
-------
Try to brake during the slight left bent before the hairpin begins.
Start sliding when you are ready.  You may have to rub the wall a little
bit (but hopefully, you've slided to prevent yourself from fronting the
barrier too soon).

Turns 20 and 21
---------------
Try to slide during these two turns, and definitely right after Turn 21,
straighten up the car (don't spin-out, though) and get ready to cheat
on Turn 22.

Turn 22
-------
Align the wheels at the left side of the track.  Rub the wheels while the
hairpin is in progress.  Be sure that the car straightens up right after
the hairpin.

Turns 23 and 24
---------------
As soon as you see some of the Red showing up on this deadly chicane,
brake to 50 mph.  You should be ready to take on this crap chicane as
soon as this turn starts.  Hopefully you are lined up at the left side
of the track as the turn starts because you need to do some apex-cutting
if you want to pass, but if not, then I have no clue on how you will be
able to pass this test.

Turn 25
-------
Stay low on this turn as much as you can.  Cross the finish line and
hope that you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save this passed test on
the Memory Card!!!

------------------------------------------------------------------------
IA-8: ATTACK GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE (IA-CLASS EXAMINATION)
Test Car: Dodge Viper
Time Limit: 1'59"00
Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests
first.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

You have to complete the first seven IA-Class License Tests before you
can attack Grand Valley Speedway Reverse.  There's a lot of unfamiliar
turns and strange twists so you will need to compete in a mock Time
Trial using an unmodified Dodge Viper GTS before taking this test for
practice.  Try to keep a smooth racing line and definitely forget any
drifting in this course for speed.

Turns 1 and 2
-------------
Approach this turn cutting your speed to under 120 mph.  Stay low for as
much as you can for this turn.  Turn 2 is a piece of cake, but don't let
this turn fool you as you need the control if you want to take on Turns
3 and 4 without drama.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Try to cut your speed as early as you can before Turn 3 starts.  The
ideal speed overall on this deadly chicane is 40 mph.  Try to keep a
smooth racing line for as much as you can because Turn 2 is long and
tends to dizzy you out as Turn 3 starts.  Touching the wall at the
right too long during Turn 3 results in immediate fail of the test.

Turn 5
------
Cut your speed slightly so that you will avoid any foreign front-ups
during this turn.  Be sure that you are keeping a smooth racing line
in this turn in preparation for the straight.

Turn 6
------
The best time to slow down on this turn is when you are exiting the
drawbridge.  As the turn begins, try to slide (it's dangerous), and
definitely have the car straightened up at Turn 7.

Turn 7
------
Very dangerous turn.  You may have to slow down to 65 mph, stay low
throughout most of the turn, and forget accelerating until after the
turn.

Turn 8
------
The best time to slow down to 50 mph is right after the gentle left
bend terminates.  You must keep your foot off the gas if you want
to slow down in a jiffy.  Take this turn in-and-out style.  Make
sure that you are lined up at the left side and forget about speeding
up until after the turn because if you are too sloppy in this one,
then you'll fail the test.

Turns 9 and 10
--------------
While trying to slow down to a speed that enables you to go fast
enough to commence an under 119-second finish, try to stay low on
these two while maintaining control of the car.

Turn 11
-------
Slow down to 40 mph ahead of time before the turn starts.  Make sure
that you are at the right side of the track before the hairpin starts.
Cut the apex and straighten up the car so that you will be able to take
on Turns 12-14 without drama.

Turns 12-14
-----------
Cut the apex on each of these turns, and be careful of any possible dips
that may exist on these turns.  You can take on these turns if you are
careful enough.

Turn 15
-------
Hardest of the turns because you're entering this turn at speeds of up
to 135mph.  Slow down just before the side-slanting begins.  Have your
gas off the pedal and almost immediately brake.  You should be lined up
at the right side of the track and when your speed reaches 60 mph, cut
the apex, and don't accelerate until after the hairpin.  Now you should
be able to finish up GVS without any further problems.  Cross the finish
line and hope you are fast enough!!!  If so, then save your IA-Class
License on your Memory Card, and enjoy all the International A Class
Events.

========================================================================
GRAN TURISMO WORLD CUP
Number of Tracks: 6
Laps per Track: 3
Required Class License: IA-Class
Restriction of Car Type: None
Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Trial Mountain (ass-spanking time!),
Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep Forest (grass time!),
and Special Stage Route 11 (hardest of the 11 tracks in the game).  If
you don't believe me, then please read Stephen Rhee's FAQ at this URL:

-  http://www.mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt

Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 20000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 50000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Gran Turismo Hi-Fi in the Special
Event Menu (Not a car, but an addy you get for beating Gran Turismo!)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the hardest class in Gran Turismo.  You
will be racing against Castrol Mods galore, but the cars aren't as
severe as with some of the special events requiring an IA-Class License
you'll be participating on later on your career.  Even though this seems
to be hard, here's some suggestions that you should follow in order to
blow away the seemingly hard cars (though you may not be able to pole
position on all courses):

1.  Participate in the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships,
    and win the series two consecutive times.  You *should* get the
    Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and the Dodge Viper GTS-R.  As soon
    as you get these kick-ass cars, save them on the Memory Card before
    throwing the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to the Japanese and
    British Sports Car Championships.

2.  Participate in the Japanese and British Sports Car Championships
    using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition that you won during the
    Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.  Win the series
    two *consecutive* times to earn the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited
    Edition and the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition.  Dump the Civic Del
    Sol back to Honda and save your Cerbera Limited Edition on your
    memory card.  I hate Honda Cars (with the exception of the Acura
    Integra Type R).  They all suck (IMO).  After saving the TVR on your
    Memory Card, then blow the competition to a crisp at the British and
    Anerican Car Championship.

3.  Participate in the American and British Car Championship by either
    using the Dodge Viper GTS-R or the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (I
    prefer the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition).  Blow the Competition away
    two consecutive times and earn two *unrewarding* cars:  The Mazda
    RX-7 A-Spec Limited Edition and the sorry-ass Chrysler Concept Car.
    Sell the crappy Mazda RX-7 back to Mazda (if youw want a Mazda RX-7,
    then get the Mazda RX-7 Limited Edition for 500,000 credits instead)
    and sell the sorry-ass Concept Car back to Chrysler.  I hate the
    Chrysler Concept Car.  It's too weak on the long run (because I
    raced against it the first time I blew the competition away on the
    Japanese and American Car Championships, and the Concept Car isn't
    that strong, and can't catch up that much).

4.  Provided that you *have* passed all the 8 pain in the ass IA-Class
    examinations (saving your IA-License on your Memory Card) and that
    you *do* have the three kick-ass cars on your Garage (Mitsubishi
    FTO Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, and TVR Cerbera Limited
    Edition), it's time to blow the competition away at the Gran Turismo
    World Cup!

5.  This guide assumes that you're inside the cockpit of the kick-ass
    Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.  You need to change your strategies
    if you are using other cars.

6.  Fiddle up your settings that you can be prepared to take on the
    crappiest situations in the series.  You need to make sure that your
    settings are up to par with the competition.  For the least, make
    sure that you have your brakes on both sides to Level 15, and have
    your Gear Ratio adjusted so that your speed goes up to AT LEAST 190
    mph on straightaways.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING

This is a course where Toyota Castrol Supras, Nissan Skylines, and other
cars that have high top speed do the most damage in.  Make sure that you
configure your car so that you can max out your Top Speed but make sure
that you have some handling in mind because there are some sharp turns
in this track if you forgot.  A smooth racing line is all you need to
win this race.

Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed.  Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.

Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds.  Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble.  Have the car straightened.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track.  I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall.  Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area.  A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.

Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6.  Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track.  When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.

Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal.  Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN

Since you will be taking on a track with many slants, chances are that
you may need to play around with the Suspension Settings in order to
settle down for a smooth ride at Trial Mountain.  Also, you may need to
increase the strength of Brakes on both Front and Rear so that you can
take on hairpins and allow some error for some of the bizarre corners.

Turn 1&2
--------
Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning
ahead of time.  Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut
the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm
grip of the steering wheel.  The second part of the ess can be taken at
full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the
first part of the ess.  For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120
mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.

Turns 3&4
---------
You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed.  However, when you
undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't
end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel.  Try to cut your
speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid
too hard.

Turn 5
------
You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the
tunnel.  Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.  Now
I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after
this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing
that you finish undertaking this turn.

Turn 6
------
Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,
then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that
you don't want to do).  Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then
begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed.  Try to take
the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to
chew in by the time you exit this turn.  If you get inside the grass,
make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can.  Please
don't accelerate until after the turn.

Turns 7&8
---------
You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're
alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess.  Cut
your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.

Turn 9
------
Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you
should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you
shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires).  Once you're in
the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that
you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.

Vestiroth:  On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after
you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns
following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.

Turn 10
-------
Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next
tunnel.  Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding
and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means.  Please
make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll
have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.

Vestiroth:  Trust me.  You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its
160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn
11.

Turn 11
-------
The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this
rather sharp turn.  When the turn's about to start, you should be at
no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never
accelerating until after the turn.  If you can go inside the yellow
OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep
a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.

Turns 12&13
-----------
Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem
keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14.  Turn 13
seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper
than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that
you're alert of the turn at all times.

Turn 14
-------
Ancient words of wisdom:  Don't go any faster than 70 mph.  Cut
your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car
that you're slanting to the left side of the track).  Cut the apex
but don't go inside the grass.  Try to skid as much as you can in
this hairpin.  By the time you get out of this turn, you should have
barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car
straightened.  Don't let the straight fool you because you're about
to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.

Turn 15
-------
You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth
line as much as you can in this turn.  Try not to drift because not
only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the
grass which you don't want to do.  So keep a smooth racing line.  Slow
down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow
down too early).  Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.
You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph.  By the time you exit
the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final
ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.

Turns 16&17
-----------
Don't go any faster than 110 mph here.  Try to cut both Esses from the
out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping
and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error.  The best time
to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel.  Keep the car
straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you
brake, you may end up screwing up big time!

Vestiroth:  This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass
on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you
go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess
at full speed.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY

Hopefully you've got a good idea on how to use an All Wheel Drive Car
(either a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition or a Mitsubishi GTO Limited
Edition) from the GT Cup.  If not, then no big deal.  The only contrast
is that you won't be able to Pole Position on this track unless you
learn how to pilot an All Wheel Drive Car.  Before you perform a Free
Run Session, make sure that you set the Brakes to Level 15 because
you will need to cut your speed drastically if you want to allow some
room for error here.

Turn 1
------
Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon
as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
turn in the track.

Turn 2
------
If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch
the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your
speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.

Turns 3-5
---------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,
which is a bad-ass hairpin.

Turn 6
------
Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let
the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
left.

Turn 7
------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
8 is coming up.

Turn 8
------
As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.

Turn 9
------
Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,
work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you
should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be
prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because
that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
opponents.

Turn 10
-------
As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as
early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you
are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.

Turn 11
-------
If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any
slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight
before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.

Turn 12
-------
Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some
*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will
result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.

Turns 13 and 14
---------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).

Turn 15
-------
The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph
with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the
second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
you enter this area once again.  Don't act like a drunk driver in this
track because the competition's much more powerful than the Gran Turismo
Cup.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5

Although you can leave the settings alone, I recommend that you set the
brakes on both side to Level 15.  You may have to increase the Downforce
and stiffen up the Suspension if you think a stiff ride is what you may
need.  Otherwise, the brake adjustment should be enough to keep you
competitive.

Turn 1
------
Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
to hit the wall, which wears out your tires.  It's important that you
slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.

Turn 2
------
Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
115 mph would be a safe speed.  Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
wind up scrapping the right wall.  You might have to apply some braking
if appropriate.

Turn 3
------
Take the turn from the out-and-in.  Controlled braking should keep your
car under control and prepared for Turn 4.  As long as you skid, you
should not be hitting the wall.  If you are inside by the time Turn 3
starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
the turn.

Turn 4
------
Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can.  I would say the
ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.

Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration.  If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.

Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in.  Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.

Turns 8&9
---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
hit the left wall.  Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
you can skid Turn 9 without any problems.  Taking the turns out-and-in
style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
cause a spin-out.

Turn 10
-------
Killer Hairpin.  Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
hitting the wall.  Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
mistake would mean your last.  Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
wall at the right.  I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
safe.  Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.

Turn 11
-------
You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
usual speed.  By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.

Turn 12
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control.  It's
important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!

Turns 13-15
-----------
Worst part of the track.  You need to slow down as early as the
painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
nasty right.  Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
by the time you enter this area.  This part really demands good timing
and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.

Turn 16
-------
Pretty long Medium Right.  You may need to do some skidding, or you
may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
I thought.  You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast.  Don't try
to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
stance.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST

Hopefully, you've set up your brakes to Level 15 because there's bound
to be some weird corridors that you may have to brake on.  You may also
want to set up your downforce, ride height, and suspension in order to
settle down for a smooth ride, but make sure that you are setting up
your Suspension and Downforce so you can commit good handling on this
track as well because you will be facing plenty of tight turns backed
up by some grass!

Turn 1
------
A shitty way to start this course is with a BAD HAIRPIN.  Cut your speed
during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any
faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say
about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.

Turns 2&3
---------
Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the
left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries
begin.  Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow
down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control.  However,
you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*
left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up
just before Turn 5.

Turn 4
------
Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant
the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass
so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you
prepare for this turn.  You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and
you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass
contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which
causes serious delays.

Turn 5
------
You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about
to exit the tunnel.  Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift
on this turn.  I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can
take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this
turn too hot.

Turn 6 & 7
----------
You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident
with the easy right.  Try to slow down as early as just before the
easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.
You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you
hit Turn 7.  Be careful that you don't go inside the grass.  By the
time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car
straightened up.

Turn 8
------
Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend
that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,
just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right.  If you
done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid
the wall at the right.

Turns 9-11
----------
This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in
this track, so use this part of the track wisely.  Make sure that you
are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are
not hitting the walls.  Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry
abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the
easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to
finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of
the car.

Turn 12
-------
If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion
of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking.  You should
be drifting a little as you undertake this turn.  I would say that 80
mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid
the grass at the right.  Please don't accelerate until you finish taking
on this turn.  If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls
and mow some grass!

Turn 13
-------
Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass.  By the time
you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the
left and right side of the track anymore.  JOY!

Turn 14
-------
Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and
with heavy skidding.  When you get inside of the straightaway, you need
to have the car straightened.  Gotta be careful when drifting because
poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary
dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly.  I'm
trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11

If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition for the Gran Turismo World Cup, then it would be this course.
It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre corridors makes
this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.

Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.

Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
maintain your speed.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
you're inside an AWD Vehicle.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.

Turn 7
------
Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.

Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.

Turns 10-13
-----------
Pain-in-the-ass corridor.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80
mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid
here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through
this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line
right here.

Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.

Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.

Turn 18
-------
A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.

Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
Turns 20 and 21.

Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.

Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.

Turns 23 and 24
---------------
You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
the steering wheel is required.

Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.

========================================================================
SUPERTUNED SPORTS CAR CHAMPIONSHIPS
Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 5
Required Class License: IA-Class
Restriction of Car Type: No "Castrolized" cars allowed.  You cannot
bring any special cars (i.e. Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition) or anything
that has underwent Castrolization at a Racing Shop.  You can heavily
chachinate your cars with the exception of the Racing crap, and that
sucks because this is indeed a tough track because you're racing every
track in reverse (ACCIDENT TIME!), and you're contending with (oh-boy)
a Toyota Supra RZ, one of the most feared computer cars from the Front
Engine, Rear Drive Championships.  You'll need to follow my pet peeves
if you want to dominate this course.
Tracks involved: High Speed Ring Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway Reverse,
Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse, Autumn Ring Reverse (Boy, Autumn Ring
Reverse will give you the creeps, it indeed gave me the creeps!), and
Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (even more harder than Special Stage
Route 11, the forward track!)
Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: You get a late model Nissan Skyline
for winning the race.  Skylines are precious, so make sure that you
try them out before you try to sell them.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: This is the toughest series in the game.  Since you
can't bring any bad-ass racing cars (not to mention that you'll be
facing an overpsyched Toyota Supra RZ), this is something to worry
about.  Ask Jaz Rignall of PSM Online, Fukumoto Atsushi, Ben Cureton,
or anyone who burned this game to a crisp what car to use for this
series.  Everybody will say the following:

1.  Buy a 1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R and save this car on your Memory
    Card.  Earn more money at the Commercial Car Championships (using
    a completely stock Viper GTS) or you can take it easy participating
    at the Japanese and American Car Championships (with the FTO LM).

2.  Go to the Nissan Nismo and purchase any maximum-strength performance
    enhancers.  If the item says "Purchased", then you'll have to do a
    machine test before you can change the parts.  Overpsyche this car
    so it can go just about 900 HP, but don't undergo a racing
    modification this time around.

3.  After overpsyching this un-Castrolized car, save this car on your
    memory card.

4.  Be sure that you polish up your skills with this overpsyched Nissan
    via a Spot Race before you get inside this series.  Trust me, you'll
    have to get used to its controls because all courses are reverse,
    and the computer drones are out for blood!

5.  I'm gonna be assuming that you are going to be using an overpsyched
    1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R for this series.

6.  Fiddle up with your settings so that you can have the strongest
    possible brakes, and making sure that your suspension is up to par
    with the competition.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE

I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre
course.  You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that
this track has to offer.  Basically, you will be going around this ring
in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order
to block off the competition in this track.  Also, since you are racing
in Reverse for all of the series, you may have to brake as early as you
can to allow some room for error.

Turn 1
------
I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track.  If you are
going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time
*blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow
down too early as you will be touching the grass.  I found out that
with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may
want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.

Turn 2
------
Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4.  Stay
on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss
the grass at the left side of the screen.  By the time you start Turn
3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~80 mph
(but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).
Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure
that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up
hitting the grass or wall.  A good feel of the gas pedal is required.

Turn 5
------
Cut your speed to about 100 mph just before the turn starts.  Don't
cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD.  As soon as the
turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line
if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn
concludes, straighten up the car.

Turn 6
------
As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at
full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead
of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any
fashion.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE

You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley
Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages
that may cause blatant tire melting, and you do need to be a careful
driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in
order to get away from this track without too much damage.

Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin.  A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now
but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
to ~50 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~45 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~50 mph (you lose speed as
you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time exit
the chicane.  You need to be concerned with Turn 3 because that's when
you tend to enter a sharp at high speeds.

Turn 5
------
You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you
just recovered from the two hairpins.  Please do some *controlled* rapid
gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from
accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will result in
rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires.  You
should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW.

Turn 6
------
At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins
so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning
of the rear tires and a possible spinout.  The key to taking this turn
would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall
or with the least amount of errors.

Turn 7
------
Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not
going any faster than 70 mph.  You should make sure that you are turning
ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and
making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn.

Turn 8
------
Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust.  Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates.  When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.

Turn 9
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal.  Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.

Turn 10
-------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because
I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is
a deadly hairpin.

Turn 11
-------
Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  By the
time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained
control of the car.  Since you have a long straight, you should try to
brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you
braked too late).

Turns 12-14
-----------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any
unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or
right side of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns
13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind
up spinning out of control.  The key in this ess would be to treat
your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by
turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off
control anyway.

Turns 15 and 16
---------------
Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins.  Be sure you give
room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout.  Cut the
apex from the outside.  By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should
have regained control of the car.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE

Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that
you're a bad-ass driver in Gran Turismo already.  The only concern that
you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*.  Here are
some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition as stated
below, and keep in mind that you need to watch out for Turn 1 because
this turn may cause blatant tire melt if you don't react the earlier
the better.

Turn 1
------
The greatest concern in the track.  Go to the left side of the track and
when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of
this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre
wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause
a spin-off), skid.

Turn 2
------
Take this turn out-and-in.  Skid throughout this turn making sure that
you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls.  The
key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird
attempts or any blatant loss in speed.  Keeping a smooth racing line
will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
This Ess can be taken at full speed.  Make sure that you yank the car
just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for
beginners.

Turn 5
------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.
Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,
something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.

Turn 6
------
You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right
and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you
will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels.  I would just
skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall).  You may have
to adjust your speed depending on your skill.  I would say that 60 mph
is safe to start.

Turn 7
------
Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out
and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns.  By the
time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the
track.

Turn 8
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible
without any blatant sliding or slowing down.  Under 100 mph and over 90
mph would be reasonable.  A good feel of the gas and wheel is required
in order to avoid any wall contact.

Turn 9
------
This final turn can be taken at full speed.  If you skid, then just
make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the
finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
into smithereens in this track.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTUMN RING REVERSE

I hate this track simply because this track tests your ability to be a
diagnostic driver rather than on speed.  You do have to learn how to
avoid touching the grass as much as you can because there are sharp
chicanes that will throw you off course IN AN INSTANT.  It's important
that you don't go full throttle while taking on any turn, not just the
hairpins.

Turns 1 and 2
-------------
Don't go full speed and full throttle ahead on this ess or you may be
hitting the grass or the wall.  If you are at a blatantly high speed,
you need to brake to 130 mph at the Finish Line (with the foot off the
pedal) and take the turn from the outside and into the inside.  This
turn has the ability to dizzy you from the next turn, so be sure that
your car is straight so you can brake to slow down on the next turn.

Turns 3
-------
The best way to take on this turn is to brake just before the turn at
a straight line (getting the foot off the gas), and then begin sliding
from the out-and-in but it's really hard to cut the apex here because
your bound to start the turn inside, which really hurts.

Turn 4 through 6
----------------
You should be lined up at the outside of the track just before this
turn starts.  Brake at a straight line, and cut the apex at Turn 4.
Don't let your guard down right after this turn because you have to
deal with the chicane coming up.  Try to keep a straight line as much
as you can during the chicane to optimize your speed, but it's kind
of hard to do because the chicane happens so suddenly.

Turn 7
------
You shouldn't be taking this turn at speeds faster than 65 mph.  Again,
brake at a straight line, and then slide this lame 235er.  You may have
to speed out if you are bound to hit the grass at the left.  You should
have the car straightened up just before the Mazda Speed Tunnel.

Turn 8
------
Slow down to a reasonable speed so that you can slide this turn out and
in style without any blatant loss of speed.  Brake at a straight line
and at the middle of the turn, try to bank the car rightwards so you can
slide through.  You need a good feel of the gas in order to make it out
of this turn without any grass contact.

Turn 9
------
This hairpin can be taken at speeds of up to 70 mph.  Brake at a straight
line from the outside, and cut the apex, making sure that you don't abuse
the gas during the turn.  Line up the car at the right side of the track
before Turn 10.

Turn 10
-------
Approach this turn from the right side of the track and just before the
grade rise end, remove your foot from the gas and almost immediately
brake simultaneously.  The safe speed here is 45 mph with some Apex
Cutting, but I found this turn to be deadly because it's as sharp as
a lady's fingernail.

Turn 11
-------
This is much like the early stretch of the Autumnring Reverse but it's
a lot much crappier because you now have twin chicanes coming up right
after this sharp.  Again, point your car at the right side and brake
the car at a straight line.  Cut the apex and try to straighten up the
car before the chicanes come up.

Turns 12 through 15
-------------------
The ideal speed for these twin chicanes is around 70 mph.  Any contact
with the grass or the slants may make your car unstable so keep that
in mind.  Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line for as much as
you can to maintain your present control.  Cut the apex of the chicanes
if you can but a medium right follows the second chicane so instantly
so you may feel dizzy after this one.

Turn 16
-------
You may feel dizzy right after the chicanes.  Try to stay low in this
turn as much as you can even though you risk having to cut your speed
too blatantly, but if you are good enough, you should be able to cut
the apex of this turn without touching the grass at the left.  Try to
stay at the right side of the track as the turn concludes because a
tight hairpin follows up afterwards.

Turn 17
-------
Approach this hairpin by getting the foot off the gas and almost
immediately brake simultaneously to under 50 mph.  Use the out-and-in
routine to take care of this hairpin and speed out by all means if it
is necessary for you (only if you suspect that you will be hitting the
grass at the right).  Now you should have the car running straight so
that you can milk up some speed.  Be prepared to slow down as you cross
the Next Lap/Finish Line so that you can take on the first Ess without
drama.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE

This is the hardest track in the game.  Enough babbling and crying
already. :P

Turn 1
------
Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot
off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or
at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error
when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for
good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.

Turns 2 and 3
-------------
You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing
this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch
of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the
turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time
this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve
ends.

Turn 4
------
Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the
turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are
ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this
hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the
first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn
5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn
to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact
which may wear out the tires.

Turn 7
------
A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need
to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want
to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  You should position yourself
at the left side of the track right after the hairpin.

Turn 8
------
Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the
track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next
chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged
to do so.

Turns 9 and 10
--------------
You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down
just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing
line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary
slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp
turns are farther apart.

Turns 11 and 12
---------------
These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed
ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and
if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of
the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line
to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.

Turns 13 through 16
-------------------
Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the
above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of
a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you
don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance
during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go
any faster than 80 mph for the best results.

Turn 17
-------
This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and
back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the
right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding
throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can
allow some drama at Turn 18.

Turn 18
-------
Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the
track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side
of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming
up.

Turn 19
-------
You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in
at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,
even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.
You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's
when you risk spinning-out.

Turn 20
-------
At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.
Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the
apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows
up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,
then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the
right side of the track to avoid any problems.

Turn 21
-------
Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be
careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.
You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the
track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.
The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you
can and clip the apex before all is lost.

Turns 22 and 23
---------------
This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can
clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I
find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due
to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part
of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.

Turn 24
-------
Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the
wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You
should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.

Turn 25
-------
You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.
Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.

========================================================================
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 1
Laps per Track: 60
Required Class License: IA-Class
Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on Car type
Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway Only, this is an endurance race
Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 300000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: YEEESSSSS!!!!!!!!  A Toyota Castrol
Supra GT for winning the race!!!!!!  If you have not yet purchased the
Toyota Castrol Supra GT yet, then if you win the race preferrably using
the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, then this could be your lucky day.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: Now here's where things begin to get shitty:  A close
to 2-hour, 60-lap, 300-mile race on the most beautiful track on Gran
Turismo, enough to wear out your PlayStation to Smithereens!  In order
to avoid running the PlayStation for more than 2 hours (and to avoid any
spamming or mail-bombing into my mailbox), here's what you have to do:

1.  You *should* have a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo overpsyched and
    *CASTROLIZED* in preparation to enter the Japanese and American Car
    Championship.  You should have tested your ability to pilot a GTO
    Twin Turbo long ago during the High Speed Championships.

2.  Blast the competition to a crisp by throwing the Mitsubishi GTO
    Twin Turbo at the Japanese and American Car Championships to win the
    Mitsubishi FTO Limited Editon.  Save the FTO LM on the memory card
    and get in the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and win the Japanese
    and American Car Championships once again to get the Dodge Viper
    GTS-R.  Save the Viper on your Memory Card and board onto the
    Japanese and British Car Championships.

3.  Using the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, burn the competition away
    winning the Japanese and British Car Championships two consecutive
    times, keeping the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition and dumping the lame
    Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition.  Save the TVR Cerbera Limited
    Edition on the Memory Card, get inside the TVR, and get ready to
    blow the competition to a crisp again on the American and British
    Car championships.

4.  Win the American and British Car Championships two consecutive
    times and dump the Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited Edition and the sorry
    ass Chrysler Concept Car before saving the progress on the Memory
    Card.  Now rest your PlayStation for 30 minutes to about an hour
    so that your ready to hit Grand Valley Speedway once your PSX cools
    off.

5.  Now that your PSX has rested long enough, get inside the Mitsubishi
    FTO Limited Edition and kick ass on the 300-mile Grand Valley
    Speedway Endurance Championship!

6.  I'm gonna use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for this course.
    I know it's repetitive, but since this is an endurance race, it's
    necessary for me to adjust some tactics a little so that you don't
    overskid which wears out tires.

7.  I recommend that you pit every 12-15 laps for fresh new rubber.
    As of this writing, the information here may or may not be too
    accurate, so you may have to help me out on this.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY

You should be familiar with this track back in the Gran Turismo World
Cup to get a feel on how to pilot a Mitsubishi FTO here.

Turn 1
------
Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
second turn, which is a hairpin.  You'll want to cut your speed as soon
as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
turn in the track.

Turn 2
------
If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
this hairpin, then great.  If not, then be prepared to either touch
the dirt or deal with a spinout!  It's important that you cut your
speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.

Turns 3-5
---------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
of the track.  If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
of control.  You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,
which is a bad-ass hairpin.

Turn 6
------
Ancient words of wisdom:  Slow down ahead of time for control.  By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph.  Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there.  Don't let
the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
left.

Turn 7
------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it.  I should be staying near
the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
8 is coming up.

Turn 8
------
As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
Races).  Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.

Turn 9
------
Deadly Sharp Left.  Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
not going any faster than ~50 mph.  Start the turn from the outside,
work your way inside.  If you performed this turn correctly, then you
should *barely* miss the wall.  If you took this turn lousy, then be
prepared to hit the wall or spin out.  Try not to slide here because
that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
opponents.

Turn 10
-------
As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad).  Try to slow down as
early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
turn.  I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited.  If you
are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.

Turn 11
-------
If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great.  At Turn 11, don't go any
slower than 90 mph.  I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins.  Use the straight
before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.

Turn 12
-------
Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started?  Well, do some
*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
refrain from accelerating until the turn ends.  Failure to do this will
result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.

Turns 13 and 14
---------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway.  Cut your speed
to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn.  Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in.  You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
you slide).  On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn.  You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).

Turn 15
-------
The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
or having to touch the grass on either side.  I would say that ~130 mph
with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left.  On the
second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
you enter this area once again.

========================================================================
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITH RACING CARS
Number of Tracks: 1
Laps per Track: 30
Required Class License: IA-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Racing Cars permitted, no restriction on any
car you want to be in.
Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 only
Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: You get a Nissan Silvia Limited
Edition (Castrolized) for winning this race.  Try to experiment this
car before going on.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note:  You should have familiarized yourself with this track
a long time ago, just before you got your IA License.  In order to make
sure that you don't make too many pit stops, here are the procedures:

1.  Get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition by winning the Japanese and
    American Sports Car Championship.  Save this car on your Memory
    Card.

2.  Try to win all A-Class Championships (earning nothing but Gold)
    before getting your International A License.  Save all your progress
    on the Memory Card before going onto winning the International A
    License.

3.  Pass the pain-in-the-ass International A License Tests, save the IA
    License on the Memory Card, and practice up with the FTO Limited
    Edition until you're comfy enough to take on this track.

4.  Pit the FTO against all other cars on this track.  Be sure that you
    take a Pit stop for every 10 laps.  I'm assuming that you are riding
    an FTO for this track.

5.  Fiddle up with the settings so that you are up-to-par with the
    competition.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11

Since you're in for a 30-lap race in the hardest track in Gran Turismo,
you may have to drive conservatively here in order to prevent blatant
tire wear.  Remember, the lighter the car, the longer the tire life.
Since this information was taken from my previous Gran Turismo FAQs,
the information here will be inaccurate.  Please correct me (via e-mail)
if you can.

Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed.  Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.

Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside.  Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps).  Don't be starting the turn too early as you
may hit the right wall.  Be sure that you drift here so that you can
maintain your speed.

Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly.  Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding.  Try not to do too much slowing down since
you're inside an AWD Vehicle.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp.  Watch out for the
slant just before Turn 6 starts.  Skid through Turn 6, and then get
ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.

Turn 7
------
Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
killer hairpin.  Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
wall at the left.  You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.

Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed.  Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
throughout most of the turn.  Be sure that you are not drifting this
turn too hot as this will result in a spinout.  You can hug the right
wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.

Turns 10-13
-----------
Pain-in-the-ass corridor.  You may want to cut your speed to around 80
mph so you don't end up hitting the wall.  Don't get into a bad skid
here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through
this corridor without hitting the wall.  Keep a smooth racing line
right here.

Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.

Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout.  Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane.  By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.

Turn 18
-------
A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here.  The key to passing
this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.

Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin.  You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal.  You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin.  However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right.  Be sure that
you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
Turns 20 and 21.

Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn.  Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins.  A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.

Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin.  This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel.  As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal.  Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com)
but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.

Turns 23 and 24
---------------
You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
in order to avoid sloppy screwups.  Brake from the left side of the
track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
begins, keep a smooth racing line.  A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
the steering wheel is required.

Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn.  Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall.  A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.

========================================================================
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 ENDURANCE CHAMPIONSHIP WITHOUT RACING CARS
Number of Tracks: 1
Laps per Track: 30
Required Class License: IA-Class
Restriction of Car Type: No Racing Cars allowed.  You cannot be inside
a special (cheap) model or have the car "Castrolized" if you want to
enter this race, so have an overtweaked Nissan Skyline GT-R (without
the Castrol Crap) ready.
Tracks involved: Special Stage Route 11 Reverse (Pain in the ass)
Pole Position Bonus: 20000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 150000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: An upgradeable Nissan Nismo GT-R
Limited Edition for winning the race.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: If you thought that Special Stage Route 11 Reverse in
the Supertuned Car Championships was an ass, wait until you encouter a
30-lap race in this championship as well.  Entering this race, I'm
assuming that you already have a Nissan Skyline that you thrown one time
at the Supertuned Car Championships.  Here's what to do:

1.  Buy a Nissan Skyline, get everything you need to enter the Overly
    Tuned car championships, and win the series.  Save the victory on
    your Memory Card.

2.  Keep on practicing with your Skyline on this championship until
    you are comfy enough to take on this track, since you will be
    racing on reverse.

3.  I'm gonna be using a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec for this course.
    Change the tactics if you are using different cars.

4.  Since you are not allowed to bring in racing cars for this track,
    make sure that you are not undergoing any cheap racing mod in
    prep for this series.

5.  You will need to fiddle up your settings a little for stability
    and handling purposes.  You should try to pit in every 6-10 laps
    since Skylines have high curb weight.

6.  Use Hard Racing Tires in order to keep up with the competition.
    Soft Racing Tires are good for higher traction, but they tend to
    wear out in only a matter of seconds.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 REVERSE

This is not a course for a Nissan Skyline of any kind to get inside
because this track is laden with lots of sharp turns, weird hairpins,
and an array of unparrallel corners with harsh passages.  Urban racing
has always been the most famous form of racing, but has always been the
most technical aloft because almost all of the time you face a lot of
barriers in this track.

Turn 1
------
Approach this corner at a straight line and brake while having the foot
off the gas.  Try to take this turn pointing yourself at the middle or
at the inside of the turn so that you can allow yourself room for error
when the chicane is coming up.  This turn is sure to make you dizzy for
good because your taking on this turn at an insane speed.  Sadly and
sarcastically, since this is an Endurance Race, you'll have to go much
slower than you did on the Tuned Car Championships.  Riding on HH Racing
Tires is a pain in the ass BTW.

Turns 2 and 3
-------------
You shouldn't be taking this turn full speed and your chances of passing
this chicane will increase if you cut your speed during the final stretch
of Turn 1.  The left side of the track is the ideal area to start the
turn.  Try to cut the apex as much as you can here.  It's hard to time
this chicane since the turn happens just a little after the first curve
ends.

Turn 4
------
Approach this turn and brake at a straight line.  Cut the apex of the
turn and return to the outside of the track, making sure that you are
ready to use out-and-in once again for the next two turns after this
hairpin.  You should be going no faster than 45 mph here.  Since there
are times when time and speed are a concern, you may want to rub the
wall at the right side of the track by banking the car just right and
continue to rub the car until the turn ends.  This wears down your tires
faster so don't do this unless you need to catch up.

Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to slide on both of these turns, but try to stay outside of the
first half.  Afterwards, provided that you have stayed outside of Turn
5, you can cut the apex of Turn 6.  Try to treat these two as one turn
to optimize performance.  Going too fast will result in barrier contact
which may wear out the tires.  However, you'll have to go slightly
slower on these turns due to the tires that you've installed on your
Skyline.

Turn 7
------
A left bend will dizzy you real good just before the hairpin.  You need
to be going no faster than 45 mph here and doing out-and-in if you want
to avoid hitting the walls at the right.  It's really difficult to time
it right on this turn because the tires that I've installed is what
really hurts the Skyline's handling.

Turn 8
------
Move to the Left side of the track, slow down, cut the right side of the
track, and move back to the left side of the track just before the next
chicane starts.  You shouldn't be accelerating even though you are urged
to do so.

Turns 9 and 10
--------------
You may feel a little dizzy after Turn 8 so be prepared to slow down
just before the Chicane Starts.  You should try to keep a smooth racing
line and possibly cut both turns in order to avoid any unnecessary
slowing down.  This chicane is IMHO harder than the first since the sharp
turns are farther apart.  Also, you may be bound to hit some walls
depending on the tires that you are wearing.

Turns 11 and 12
---------------
These easy bends should be no problem, but don't be going full speed
ahead as you will have to face the harsh corridor sooner or later and
if you want to pass this area without any frontal contact with any of
the barricades, then it's important that you brake in a straight line
to cut your speed in preparation for the rough chicanes.

Turns 13 through 16
-------------------
Unless you were able to cut your speed from the previous point at the
above paragraph, you'll be finding yourself hitting the barriers all of
a sudden.  While going through these chicanes, it's crucial that you
don't get into a blatant slide that may cause you to go off-balance
during this crappy area.  Keep the car running straight and don't go
any faster than 80 mph for the best results.  Overspinning the tires
will result in blatant tire burn and possibly some engine overheat.

Turn 17
-------
This turn can be taken from the left, to the right during the turn, and
back into the left (although you should try to position yourself to the
right, but that's Turn 18) by braking at a straight line, and sliding
throughout this turn.  Have the car straightened up so that you can
allow some drama at Turn 18.

Turn 18
-------
Move from the left side of the track and into the right side of the
track.  After the turn, you should position yourself to the right side
of the track to prepare yourself to take on the hairpin which is coming
up.

Turn 19
-------
You need to be braking at a straight line and possibly use out and in
at no faster than 55 mph in order to avoid any collision with any walls,
even though you're bound to hit the barriers your first couple of times.
You can slide through this hairpin but it's too dangerous because that's
when you risk spinning-out.  You can take on this hairpin like you did
with the first, but do that ONLY if you need to catch up with the
competition.

Turn 20
-------
At the straightaway, position yourself to the left side of the track.
Brake ahead of time so that you can allow some room for error.  Clip the
apex of the turn.  Try to go as slow as you can because Turn 21 follows
up right after this turn.  If you want to take on Turn 21 without drama,
then you should try to stay either centered after the turn or stay at the
right side of the track to avoid any problems.  Since the tires are not
as responsive as SS Racing Tires, you may need to brake a little earlier
so that you can allow some room for error.

Turn 21
-------
Clip the apex of this turn by slowing down and sliding this lamer.  Be
careful not to hit the barrier at the left when you are cutting the apex.
You can still make it throughout this turn even from the left side of the
track, but it's pretty ludicrous since you hit the wall at the right.
The key to undertaking this turn is to move to the right as much as you
can and clip the apex before all is lost.

Turns 22 and 23
---------------
This is a blind chicane.  Try to slow down just right so that you can
clip the apex of this chicane without any contact with the barriers.  I
find this too difficult because I can't see what's gonna happen next due
to the slight upgrade and the height of the barriers.  The second part
of the chicane is a lot sharper, so stay on your toes.  Your chances of
crossing this chicane without any barrier contact will be greater if
you slow down earlier than what you would do with SS Racing Tires.

Turn 24
-------
Move to the right side of the track before this turn.  Brake with the
wheels parrallel and slide this final lamer by clipping the apex.  You
should be at the right side of the track when the turn ends.

Turn 25
-------
You should now be able to complete the track without any further problems.
Stay as low as you can in this turn for some much needed speed.  If you
are wearing HH Racing Tires, I recommend that you pull over to the pits
every 6-10 laps (because the higher the curb weight, the shorter the
tire life).  If you are using SS Racing Tires, then you're out of luck.

========================================================================
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, I highly
recommend going over THIS SECTION OF MY FAQ and all other FAQs I've
created for Gran Turismo.  This section is basically derived from my
very own Gran Turismo Frequently Asked Questions Pages at the following
URL:

* http://www.verasnaship.net/text/gtfaqs.html 

Also, please look up at the available documents that I have by going
inside http://www.verasnaship.net/text. Most of your questions should be
answered by these documents as well.

If for any reason you do NOT see a question that I have answered just
yet, then you can use the Mail To Me form by punching in the Form Mail
Address (http://www.verasnaship.net/text/emailme.html) of your favorite
Browser. Please be VERY constructive when asking me questions. If the
question turns out to be a main concern for either of the Gran Turismo
Series, then I will put it up on this page.

Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
   Mode of the game?

A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.

Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?

A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
   throughout the Simulation Mode.

Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
   FAQs?

A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
   Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
   is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
   can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.

Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?

A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
   However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
   although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
   test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
   settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
   car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
   first) unless you know what you're doing.  For beginners, sell this
   sorry-ass car back to Chrysler (you don't need it).  However, this
   is definitely a different story for the Advanced Players since they
   are more biased towards Rear-Drive Cars.

Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
   Racing Body?

A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
   of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
   what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message: 

   "I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
    noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
    that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
    racing modification'. 

    This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
    racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
    reduction or not.

    I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
    brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
    AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.

    I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
    the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
    cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
    other without.

    Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."

Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?

A: Here's the lowdown:

   Sunday Cup: A car that can blow all the Vehicular Slugs to toast. 

   Clubman Cup: The first time I won this series, I used a psyched-up
   Mitsubishi Eclipse.  Be sure that you have at least 400-bhp under the
   hood and some Sports Parts plugged in before participating in this
   series.

   GT Cup: The going gets tough from this point on.  Either a
   fully-tuned, non-racing "Best from Japan" car or a Racing Car.  If
   you want to use a British or an American Car, there's nothing better
   than either a TVR Cerbera or a Dodge Viper.

   GT World Cup: Mitsubishi FTO LM or Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR,
   fully-tuned with the racing body.

   Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
   Body under your discretion.

   Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
   and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.

   All-Wheel Drive: Nissan Skyline GTS-R 1989, Nissan Skyline GTR
   VSpec.  Reason why I said so on this is because the Skylines are
   the most powerful AWD cars in the game, although these cars really
   need sedatives, and they can't be controlled too easily.

   Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
   Tuned.  I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.

   US Versus Japan: Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR or Mitsubishi FTO
   LM, Nissan GTR

   Japan Versus UK: Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR, Mitsubishi FTO LM,
   TVR Cerbera LM, Nissan Skyline GTR

   US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM, TVR Cerbera, Dodge Viper

   Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
   anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.

   Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
   (No Racing Bodies).  This is the hardest race to win on because
   you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
   is a sad moment!

   Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
   Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph

   Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM

   Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM

   Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
   Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies).  This is another difficult race to
   win.  Definitely configure your car for handling here.

Q: I can't get past License A-4!

A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
   key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
   slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
   this track may require use of Manual Transmission. 

   At the starting line, you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
   all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
   before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
   the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
   If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
   final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
   gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
   that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
   takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
   your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
   driver you are rather than on speed.

   Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
   it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!

Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!

A: The eligible cars are as follows:

   * Toyota Starlet Glanza V
   * Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
   * Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
   * Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
   * Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
   * Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
   * Mitsubishi FTO GPX
   * Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
   * Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
   * Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
   * Acura Integra GS-R
   * Acura Integra Type R
   * Honda Civic Sedan
   * Honda Civic Racer
   * Honda Civic 3-Door
   * Honda Civic Del Sol S
   * Honda Civic Del Sol Si
   * Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
   * Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
   * Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
   * Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
   * Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
   * Mazda Demio GL-X
   * Mazda Demio GL
   * Mazda Demio LX G-Package
   * Mazda Demio A-Spec.

   All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
   GT Manual and Instruction Book.

Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!

A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
   among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
   doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
   to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
   time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
   short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
   you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
   I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track. 

Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!

A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
   requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
   B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
   IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions: 

   1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
      for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
      tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
      your progress to your Memory Card. 

   2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
      Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
      Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
      and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
      to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
      way to earn some cold hard cash.

   3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
      the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
      and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
      need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
      few times to get used to it.

   4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
      500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
      has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
      to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
      Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.

   5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
      Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
      the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
      Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
      Cars a lot better.

Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.

A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
   Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
   whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
   NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
   THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
   anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
   ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
   then I will assume you spamming me. 

Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?

A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
   your car to the maximum possible levels.  This means maxing-out the
   brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
   I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
   to you, though.

Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
   Station?

A: I may not be able to do so because my sights are in both the Play
   Station 2 and the Sega Dreamcast.  More likely I'm looking forward
   towards the PS2 version of Gran Turismo 2, which has smoother animation
   than the PSX versions of GT and GT2 combined.  However, _if I do_ get
   my hands on GT2, then I might consider creating a License guide for
   it.  However, I _WILL NOT_ use any resources like I did the last time
   as I have plans to be original for GT2 if for any reason I get my
   copy.

========================================================================
THE DO'S AND DONT'S

***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***

AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE.  THIS IS BECAUSE THERE
ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS
AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET.  THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS
IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE.  ANY MORE
E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.
THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE
THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF
EVERY OF MY WORKS.

IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN
IMMEDIATELY.  I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,
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THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE
CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.

THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
ALWAYS BE.

Note: This notice is derived on Brett Nemesis Franklin's Crazy Taxi
FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
make this one more severe.

Again, this file can only show up on the following addresses:

* Verasnaship Interactive, http://www.verasnaship.net
* GameFAQs, http://www.gamefaqs.com
* Secrets of the Game Sages, http://www.gamesages.com
* Cheat Code Central, http://www.cheatcc.com
* Game Shark Code Creators Club, http://www.cmgsccc.com

If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY.  Please notify and/or warn me about this
as soon as you can.  Thank you.

In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
(http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).

Why?  Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
updated and up-to-date.

You can always get the latest version at my website (Verasnaship
Interactive at http://www.verasnaship.net) since I run that website
and I always post them instantly right at my website first.

GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
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Cheat Code Central does a good job in keeping the FAQs fresh, original,
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has cheat codes for those who live ONLY for cheat codes *yuck*.

Secrets of the Game Sages is a "Code-related" partner to GameFAQs
since both GameFAQs and Secrets of the Game Sages share the same
information, links, and tricks-to-date.

Game Shark Code Creators Club is a Game Shark site run under the Code
Master to provide up-to-date Game Shark Codes and is a highly visited
Game Shark site.

From time-to-time, I might elect to do PDFs on certain games.  You
can always get the latest version at Verasnaship Interactive first
(again, http://www.verasnaship.net).  For the first time (From the
date of February 13, 2000 and from now on), GameFAQs has MY SEAL
OF APPROVAL to mirror SOME PDFs on my site!

Rules:

* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly.  Only the five
  aforementioned sites have an exclusive right to mirror this file.

* You can make a link to my FAQ Library Page.  The only rules that
  I would like to enforce is that you link ONLY to an HTML or an
  Interactive Web Page.  The link to this page is:

  - http://www.verasnaship.net/text/arcade.html

* If you are planning to link to the six other sites that I have
  mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
  your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
  webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
  your link to).  If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
  the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
  restricting links:

  = http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
    Linking Rights Essay).

========================================================================
REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ

NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
helped me out while I was still green on this game.  These people/sites
are:

*  Jaz Rignall (http://www.psmonline.com)
*  GameFAQs.com (http://www.gamefaqs.com)
*  Mousse Lee
*  Mystery Rhee (http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
*  Sam Davis
*  Fukomoto Atsushi (http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
*  Secrets of the Sega Sages (http://www.segasages.com)
*  Imagine Games Network (http://www.imaginegames.com)

========================================================================
SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA

Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
Period.  I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use.  Don't spam
me.  It's not worth it.

In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO.  If you even dare ask me for any
cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.

See http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.

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SOME RANTS

After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
Memory Card.  This is good because I don't want to go through the
trouble of having to get my license once again.  It may be hard to get
your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
getting it.

When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
Turismo.  Be it.  There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo.  Sony will
not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
develop and never will.  Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
the bottom line!

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

*  Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
   and being the wiz in Gran Turismo.  Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
   http://www.psmonline.com.

*  Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
   the market ever yet.

*  Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
   General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
   their cars in Gran Turismo.

*  Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
   one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.

*  Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
   Commercial Car Race.

*  Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
   IGN Affiliates.

*  Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
   for creating his own compendium.

*  Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
   and for days of e-mail communication.

*  GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.

*  Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.

** END OF DOCUMENT **

Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim.  All Rights Reserved
Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment.  Developed
by Polyphony Digital.  All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
owners.